Kolkata's Durga Puja Faces a Hilsa Heartbreak as Bangladesh Halts Exports

Ah, Durga Puja in Kolkata! It's a time of vibrant pandals, joyous celebrations, and, for many, the incomparable delight of Padma Hilsa. This silvery queen of fish, especially when sourced from Bangladesh's mighty Padma river, holds a special place in the Bengali culinary heart. But this year, as the city gears up for Durga Puja 2027, a shadow of disappointment looms large, threatening to leave many a plate (and palate) longing.

It seems that the coveted Padma Hilsa will be a scarce luxury, if available at all, for the upcoming festivities. Bangladesh, our friendly neighbor, has put a firm halt on its Hilsa exports to India. And, let me tell you, this isn't just a simple 'no' to exports; the situation is far more layered and, frankly, a bit bewildering for those in the fish trade.

What's really striking is the recent twist. While Kolkata hoped for its share of Padma Hilsa, Bangladeshi traders themselves had been busy importing a substantial amount — approximately 550 metric tonnes, no less — of roe-filled hilsa from Gujarat, India, throughout August and September. But then, on a recent Wednesday, the Bangladeshi government suddenly imposed a ban on these very Hilsa imports from India, even going so far as to cancel existing import permits for its own traders. Talk about a curveball!

Naturally, the Fish Importers' Association in Kolkata, led by Secretary Syed Anwar Maqsood, had been proactively engaging with Bangladeshi officials back in August. There was an initial flicker of hope, a reported assurance that Hilsa would indeed make its way across the border. However, with the sudden ban on imports into Bangladesh and the cancellation of permits, any prior arrangements seem to have fallen by the wayside. The very fish that might have eventually made it to Kolkata via this circuitous route is now stuck in limbo.

This isn't the first time Hilsa exports from Bangladesh have seen such turbulence, you see. There was a notable ban imposed way back in 2013 by the then Sheikh Hasina government. But then, after some diplomatic discussions, that ban was graciously lifted in 2018. For a good seven years since, India, particularly Kolkata, had been receiving these prized fish as a special 'gift.' It became a cherished tradition, one that many now fear is coming to an end, at least for this Puja.

Adding to the urgency, Bangladesh is set to impose its annual ban on Hilsa fishing in the sea starting October 8. This leaves a tiny, almost non-existent window for any fresh imports to even be considered, let alone reach Kolkata in time for Durga Puja. For a city that celebrates its food as much as its festivals, the absence of Padma Hilsa will undoubtedly be a bittersweet note amidst the otherwise joyous revelry.