TasteFood: Every season is taco season

In the middle of winter — also known as the dark and cold lull between holiday festivities and the hopeful warming signs of spring — the days are often spent seeking indoor diversions, while our imaginations lead us to warm and sunny destinations. Look no further than the kitchen for immediate real life respite.

It may be yucky outside, but we can bring fun and lightness to our dinner with a heap of fresh and messy food, where all the attention is focused on the kitchen table — essentially, the center of our winter universe. It’s time to make tacos. These fish tacos give a green light to eating with our hands.

They are bright and healthy, inviting everyone to dig in and assemble their own food. They are wonderfully flexible, too, combining year round ingredients with a smattering of easy toppings and drizzles that can be prepared in advance, along with an optional salsa fresca that can either be homemade or store bought.

Choose lean, mild flavored white fish fillets that are firm and flaky when cooked, such as halibut. Mahi mahi, snapper, lingcod, sea bass and grouper are good alternative choices. Makes 8 tacos 1/2 small head red cabbage, shredded 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 2 thin scallions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon honey 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup whole milk Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 small garlic clove, pushed through a press 1/2 teaspoon honey 1/2 teaspoon Sriracha Pinch of kosher salt 8 ounces grape tomatoes or Roma tomatoes, finely chopped 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded, finely chopped 1/2 small red onion, finely chopped 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Pinch of sugar, optional 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 1/2 pounds center cut halibut fillets, cut in 1 inch strips Extra virgin olive oil 8 (8 inch) flour or corn tortillas, warmed or toasted Avocado slices, cilantro sprigs and lime wedges for serving Make the slaw: Combine the cabbage, cilantro and scallions in a bowl.

Whisk the lime juice, oil, honey, cumin, salt and black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the cabbage and stir to coat. Taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop. Make the crema: Combine the crema ingredients in a small bowl and stir to blend. Refrigerate until use.

Make the salsa (if using): Combine the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Stir to combine, then taste for seasoning. Let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop or refrigerate until use. Prepare the tacos: Combine the cumin, paprika, salt, black pepper and cayenne in a small bowl. Place the fish on a large plate and lightly coat on all sides with oil.

Sprinkle the spices over the fish, gently turning to coat. Related Articles Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Arrange the fish in the skillet, without overcrowding and in batches as necessary. Cook until opaque through the center, 4 to 5 minutes, turning once with a spatula.

Transfer to a platter. To assemble, place 2 to 3 strips of fish on a warm tortilla. Top with some of the slaw and drizzle with the crema. Serve with avocado, additional cilantro, lime wedges and salsa fresca (if using)..